The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of growers who produce wine from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of Β£7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Michael Fowler
Michael Fowler

A passionate storyteller and writing coach with over a decade of experience in fiction and creative non-fiction.